Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Cookbooks of 2009

Check out these best of 2009 books Read More......
I have two questions for you:
1. What is your favorite place in the city to eat?
2. What is your favorite meal to order there? Read More......

Monday, November 23, 2009

Not that it really matters (I guess this is more motivation for myself than notification for the two readers I have now) but I refuse to write about the food I eat until I buy a camera. And use it. I cannot blog about food adequately without it. I dunno why I pretended I could.

Until then, I don't know if this blog will be updated (oh no, how will you fill that 3 minutes every month without my one new post?) at all. I've become a fan of the convenience of twitter, linking to things without having to be wordy.

Maybe things will get more serious if I get into graduate school. And, at this point, that is a big if.

But the good thing about food is that there is always something about it everyday. It's not just part of our lives, for some us, it is who we are. Read More......

Monday, November 2, 2009

I drink, therefore I am?

What does the beer you drink say about you? Read More......

Thursday, October 15, 2009

In Defense of Dining Alone

For some reason, I am in the minority when it comes to solo dining. Most find it awkward and avoid it like the plague, walking blocks in adverse weather carrying take out or eating spoonfuls of peanut butter instead of sitting alone in a restaurant.

And while I do believe many a meal, even the worst, can come out smelling like roses with the right company, sometimes I find that company to be only an empty chair. And since I've started working the regular 9-5 and the last person I really related to on a social level left, I've taken the occasional lunch out even more frequently. Because there's only so many work lunches I can take (Though I am definitely not one of those 'just learn how to cook' zealots, who has that kind of time?).

Granted, I should put this up front before I start getting into the zen of eating. I am not, nor have I ever really been, a very socially outgoing person. I am a common mix of being an introvert and shy. I can get lost in my thoughts. I was one of those people who sat by the windows between classes, pretending to study but just watched the people go by. It's actually one of my favorite hobbies (voyeuristic stereotypes be damned). I'm also closely guarded about certain things. And, in all honesty, I'm kind of an asshole. Which helps keep people a certain distance. It's also why I'm kind of a 'shitty friend,' at least to those who 'know' me.

So all that being said, I still think everyone should, at least occasionally, eat out by themselves. It's a specific experience that you cannot otherwise get. For one, while no one ever really calls me on it, I hate the fact that I am a slow eater. One of the slowest, if not the, in my group friends. So I awkwardly sometimes concentrate on chewing and swallowing, just so everyone else isn't just sitting there staring at my half eaten burger while they're flagging for the check. And the converse is true too, I've heard fast eaters feel quite self-conscious about it, when eating speeds are just completely out of sync. So there's a point for dining alone.

Related, I think it's easier to enjoy or explore the food without either the aforementioned worry of social conventions in eating rate, but also just sometimes savoring flavors. It's sometimes seen as awkward for groups of people to eat in silence. It's seen as perfectly normal for one guy to eat in silence (in fact, if he were talking, that'd probably be the most awkward situation, at least for the waitstaff).

But there is a certain tranquility in being able to enjoy a meal completely in your control and power. And that can be calming in an otherwise hectic and entropic life.

I usually also get to indulge in my people watching, and if not, I usually get a few good chapters read in my latest book.

Although it never really affects me, some people change their orders from what they truly want when in the company of others.

You may absolutely hate it, some say they just feel self-conscious. But if you can get through that, it may just bring a peace of mind.
Read More......

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

I've got my eye on you

I've always been a fan of off menu ordering; it makes you feel...special, like you're part of a secret society that only those in the know get to enjoy. And this website is sharing with its audience the chance to join those ranks. While meager offerings now, I hope it grows with time. And that cap'n crunch frappachino sounds kinda awesome. Read More......

I love the internet

I used to complain that I wish more food came in edible containers.

My wishes have come true: http://www.crispycones.com/index.htm (warning super annoying music ahead).

It's like making a disgusting hot pocket with whatever crap you wanna throw in it! Read More......

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Just What are We Buying Into?

I am not nutritionist. This is not a blog about health, dieting, or nutrition. I often eat like I am still in college. Or may never see food again. Yes, sometimes I just get hungry looking at This is Why You're Fat.

But this article has sparked numerous responses from the world at large.

And then I found this.


So after fads of monitoring fats, meats, carbs, anything in our diet, are just being cognizant of calories helping? I'll throw my hat in the ring and say that yes, we are moving toward a more responsible dietary standard.

I don't know this from personal experience, because in my youthful hedonism I completely ignore those listings.

Let me rephrase. That's not, technically, true. Since even before they were printed right on that fast food menu staring you down, there were stacks of cards, usually by the bathroom or some out of the way place and I would scan them. I once tried, in junior high, to construct the most unhealthy possible single meal at a Carl's Junior.

But times have changed. We are entering an age of ever increasing understanding of how food affects us, and especially an age of information, traveling faster and further than ever before. And the ever present reminder of the obesity epidemic.

The combination of these things will, naturally result in a cultural shift in eating habits. Of this I am sure. How it will play out, I am not.
Read More......

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

And speak of the devil...

this may put some of you off of burgers for a while.

I told you it can be hard to go on after constantly reading about our flawed foodways.
Read More......

Saturday, October 3, 2009

In Defense of Food?

Let's be honest, I am a bad foodie. As I mentioned before, I am an indiscriminate eater. I like food. Good food, bad food, whatever. And in this day and age of Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman, it's hard to make the right decisions.


I was never one of those vegans who felt the need to fight for the plight of the abused animal, but it is really getting harder and harder to eat the foods that I loved with a clean conscious. The reporting about the conditions of cattle and feed lots should be challenging the status quo more than Upton Sinclair's The Jungle. The argument to move from seed to leaf eating is convincing. And the industrialization of food should be cause for alarm to anyone with a sense of taste.

But civilization arose, developed, and modernized, through specialization. We no longer spend all of our resources simply trying to survive. And one of the prices we pay is to let others specialize in a food supply.

I don't smoke, I drink in moderation (well, I suppose that's debatable), I exercise, I take leisure time. But I don't eat well. Food will be the death of me. Yes, I'll have the bacon cheeseburger and fries. Yes I'll follow that with a red velvet cupcake. And what the hell, you convinced me to buy three donuts for a dollar (though I really don't need it).

Except what did I eat? Corn. It's cheap, it's everywhere, and it's rotting us inside and out. And yet I stand idly by as it continues to dominate my entire life. Because...damn if corn dogs aren't delicious, from the golden crispy corn bread coating to the corn fed meat dog on the stick (though, thinking of that visual, i'll admit, is a little offputting).

It's hard to be into food. The more I read and learn about any aspect of it, the less I should, on a conscious level, want to eat. What is a foodie supposed to do?

"We are living in a world today where lemonade is made from artificial flavors and furniture polish is made from real lemons"

Read More......

Monday, September 7, 2009

Hodge Podge Mis Match

Looking back on the blog, I feel bad that I have neglected a lot of food in my life.

The Smoke Joint - Ft. Greene's very own BBQ joint. Self-proclaimed as authentic NYC style, it doesn't pretend to be anything it's not.

The pulled pork was good but unremarkable. Tender but lacked any real bite. The corn on the cob was great, smothered in a great aioli and seasoned with 'jointrub'. And the cornbread was a generous hunk of crumbly goodness. I also thought the bourbon bar it is attached to is a nice little place with some amazing cocktails. All in all, though, it's not the greatest place in new york, but a handy point for those that don't want to go into Manhattan. Unremarkable but not disappointing.

Tiffin Wallah - Curry Hill Indian lunch buffet. My coworker swears it is the best joint in the area and I am inclined to agree with him. Oresti and I first tried it two years prior when it first opened and was featured in NY Mag's best of list that summer. When he suggested it for a summer intern good bye party, I whole heartedly agreed (granted, a free company lunch anywhere gets my vote).

It's entirely vegetarian and entirely buffet. I couldn't tell you, exactly, what I ate because I couldn't really recognize everything. But it doesn't matter because it's all good and it's all you could eat. It's vegetarian, it's kosher, it's delicious. 3 plates and 2 beers later and I was a happy, stuffed camper.

Sugar Sweet Sunshine Bakery
- Read on Chowhound, I spent weeks considered the trek to the LES from my Kips Bay job and finally made the trek. And boy am I glad I did. My first delivery was a house warming gift to good friends Madelyn and Jill. The next day, I went back (since they were sold out of the Summer strawberry cupcake the day before) and had a sampling of my own. Let me tell you, get the strawberry cupcake before they stop selling them. They are amazing! They are falling apart with strawberry goodness permeating throughout the cake and a frosting that is amazing.

The pumpkin spice comes in a close second with a hearty, tasty cake that is complimented perfectly by the cream cheese frosting. It's like the pumpkin bread that I remember from my childhood. God I love autumn flavors.

The Sassy red velvet had a rich dense cocoa crumb, moreso than I am used to in a red velvet. And the buttercream frosting is satin smooth. It's a real winner.

The black and White (buttercream with a cocoa cake) was a little dry which was a minor stumble for them but when you put out specialty cakes like these, who can be disappointed?

Maybe I just fell in love with the backstory of Sugar Sweet Sunshine, but it's a favorite in my book.

I recently upgraded my Mac to Snow Leopard (all my PCs still run XP professional) and at our pseudo upgrade party, we tried to get food. We wanted to return to Tavern on Nostrand, right near where we lived. But they were shuttered. On a saturday evening. Way to suck guys.

So we headed into the city (ended up seeing Extract with them as well) for a bite to eat with Kyle and Satoko. I invited my childhood friend Josh, who recently graduated from UC Berkeley to attend NYU Law; someone I've known since I was 5. We went to El Cantinero, a classic hang out for a casual meal with friends as I grew up at NYU. Do you like cheesy tex-mex food with Sombreros for the birthday boy? So do I, that's why I eat here. This really epitomizes the joke that all Mexican food tastes the same, because everything here is basically just meat, beans, rice, and cheese in a tortilla. But the pitchers of margaritas are fun!

Finally Labor Day weekend involved a brunch meeting of epic proportions. Bottomless brunch at Bondi Road resulted in the lot of us, all 12, with endless mimosas, a few shots of tequila-passion fruit-strawberry concoctions on the house, and a hangar steak, topped with bacon, poached eggs, and hollandaise. The food was unremarkable but the early afternoon drunch with the gang made up for it with flying colors. If you want to have a fun, relaxed, booze fueled meal with friends, it no reason Bondi Road (and Sunburnt Cow) are staples of the LES. It's times like these that I am reminded of one of my favorite quotes:

We should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink.

And while I am sorry for not updating, I promise to keep eating. See you later.

-Ryan Read More......

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Raaaaaaarrrrrrrr

So I forgot where I first heard about Dinosaur Bar B Que but it's been a point of interest for a while. Then Emily posted this article. And that was the straw that broke the camel's back. I had had enough. So I put into motion the plan for an outing. And my friends jumped on board.

Despite some severe 1 train troubles, we finally made it all the way up to Harlem on a Saturday night. And even though they wouldn't let me reserve a table, we were able to be put on the on time list. Thanks to Julia for being clever and taking the 2 right past all those pesky local stops.

But there is a reason this place was booked up for the night. The food is GOOD. Because I wanted to get a full range of flavor, I opted for the Brisket and Pork plate (I purposely saved the ribs because I owe someone a return trip)

The pork was sweet and tender, the taste of time and care. It had a rich smoke and a soft touch. The brisket, a normally tougher cut of meat, was also lovingly cared for, with extra time put in to bring out the best in the beef.

To accompany my big plate of animals, I chose the traditional potato (the Syracuse style salt potatoes) and the mac and cheese. The potatoes are bite size, fork tender morsels floating in a delicious butter pool. Nothing could be better. The mac and cheese had an admirable kick and sneaks up on you like a brick in your gut.

Finally, the cornbread was amazing. None too sweet, with a fine crumb. The only thing that made it better was to let it soak in the potatoes' pool.

What a fine meal.

Read More......

Friday, August 7, 2009

Blogging for Beer

What's a good meal without a good drink? And what's a good bar without good friend? That's why tonight, after work, my friends and I are hitting up Black Bear Lodge for happy hour!

And in honor of the birthday of the internet, all of us bloggers are being rewarded for our hard work! Or since I am doing this at the lab, lack thereof...

It's the little things in life that make everything work out. Read More......

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Born but to banquet, and to drain the bowl

I'll admit it, I do not think there is any chance that I will ever be a gourmet. I enjoy food a lot, for sure, and I think I even have a relatively aware sense of taste. The problem is that I am not nearly particular enough. I am too easy to please. A bad burger, is still a burger to me. I'll still eat it and be happy. I am not discriminatory in what I eat. I mean, one of my favorite meals is still corn dogs and french fries (or tater tots) (and covered in cheese). And while I am still weary of eating, say, ANYTHING listed here, doesn't mean I probably wouldn't try a bite or two. I'm a food slut, giving up taste space to anything that wants in. And I'll enjoy it.

And at the same time, as I am growing older, I find my fundamental preferences changing, in both broadening and narrowing aspects. I was quite particular about certain things, from hating mayonnaise on my sandwich to craving hot dogs. Now, if the waitress leaves a dab on my turkey club or only thai food is available, I just roll with it. At the same time, I can no longer eat an entire package of oreos in one sitting anymore nor do I quite enjoy pixie stix as much.

For the life of me, I still cannot appreciate a fine wine. But I can discern between at least 3 qualities of vodka. I prefer wheat beers and tend to avoid porters. But cannot enjoy a scotch older than me like I should.

We'll see where life takes me, but for now I think I am content enjoying the simple pleasures that foods give me, in any form.

Sorry Moliere, I live to eat. Read More......

Sunday, July 26, 2009

A summary of things I probably will never get around to mentioning:
Office Party at Amber
Brunch at Cafe Orlin
Brunch at Beast
Black Bean Taco pizza at Vinny's after Brooklyn Brewery(?)
Chavella's taco delivery
Boston Market Feast with Timbits
July 4th cookout
TNBC meeting at The Smith
Reliving freshman year, eating at Kimmel
and countless other events.

If all three of you readers have any interest in my insights into any of these things, leave a note and maybe I'll get around to it. Otherwise, I have a lot more food to eat. Read More......

A Bar of One's Own

Last night was a belated housewarming party of sorts for us here out in Crown Heights and I would venture to say that it was a successful event. We had a little pre party dinner, with dinner from Udom Thai, a thai delivery place I found using teh intarwebz. But that was really just a footnote (alongside deliveries of A Slice of Brooklyn and Dominoes).

The real gem of mention is Tavern on Nostrand, a bar around the corner from our little apartment. We stopped in on this place the morning (or afternoon) after, for a quaint little brunch.

I cannot help but feel that our delivery thai suffered from food not designed to travel that far from the restaurant. I had the Udom Basil Chicken and while it was fine, it came in a plastic container drowned in its own juices. Steaming and slightly limping. It did pack a reasonable spice and the prices were fair. The spring rolls did stay crisp which was clutch, and the sweet spicy dipping glaze they were packaged with was a pleasant treat. It is my opinion that I should probably visit, sit down, and dine in the actual restaurant to make a more informed opinion of the food overall. In retrospect, I also wish I had ordered a noodle dish (just because noodles are awesome).

But really why I wanted to write was because of Tavern on Nostrand. Having just moved from PCV, being near several Irish and Sports Bars (my favorites, obviously being MJ Armstrong's and Prof. Thom's) I was glad to see a bar nearby.

After talking about visiting it for several days, we finally made plans to visit it after the party and Kyle, Evan, Melanie, and I had a throughly enjoyable experience.

The dining area was surprisingly well set up, linen tableclothes and napkins, fresh salt and pepper grinders, and a quaint menu. I had a 3 egg omelet with tomatoes, onions, and cheddar, with bacon, home fries, toast, and a mimosa. A nice midday brunch, indeed. The waitress was kind, if a bit overworked (nearly forgot Evan's bacon), and even the owner introduced himself. He seems like a guy who likes running a bar. Anyways, they both made sure that we had everything we needed, from hot sauce to more coffee. They really wanted to promote a loyal clientele, and showed us a dinner menu and talked of the night's specials. And truly, it seemed like a place where I would feel welcome coming back to on a regular basis.

Indeed, I am excited to drink beers and eat burgers only just around the corner from my apartment. Crown Heights, in my opinion, just got a touch brighter.

Read More......

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Taste tripping party

I know I have been slacking lately in my blogging duties, and all two of you readers have been missing out. It's no excuse, but I've been recently hired and been working for the NYU School of Medicine as a cardiothoracic surgeon. Just kidding, I'm a cardiothoracic research technician. It's less exciting than it sounds but it's good to know I have a job.

So I've been griping about waking up early and commuting and then just lazing about when not in actual work. But the other night I was invited by my good friend Madelyn a birthday party for her co-worker Betty, a sweet gal who has joined us before on a TNBC adventure or two. And one exciting thing? The theme of the party was a taste tripping food sampling!

So this fruit, the miracle berry, has the bizarre property of turning sour and acidic fruits to the sweetest taste experience. Though the science behind it is still less than perfectly understood, it has seen a recent revival since its introduction in the 70s. Through the power of the internet, freeze dried tablet forms of the berries can be ordered and delivered right to your door, so you can host your own party!

The pill itself is reddish pink and readily dissolves on your tongue. Make sure it coats as much of your taste buds as possible to ensure the best effects. After it's completely melted away, dig in and prepare for a crazy taste experience!

I started with a lime wedge. And let me tell you, miracle fruits make citrus AMAZING. It tasted like those sugar coated candies, except juicy and refreshing as well.

I had a sugar free goat cheese frosted cupcake and it tasted like cream cheese on shortbread.

Licorice vines became strangely tolerable.

Pickles were sweet, vibrant, and alltogether enjoyable.

Salt and Vinegar chips were puzzling. Not sure how to quite describe them. The salt was there...the vinegar wasn't...but it wasn't like a potato chips.

Guinness openned with a creamy note, broke upon the palette, and finished with chocolatey notes on the aftertaste. Kinda like an egg cream maybe.

Guacamole also took on a sweet flavor, but combined with it's creamy texture, it was reminiscent of ice cream or something. It was awesome. and confusing.

Another note, miracle fruit does not alter spicy flavors, so the onions in the dip and the jalapeno chips married their heat with a sugary sweetness, kinda like general tso's chicken except....not.

And be careful, the miracle fruit has the ability to completely nullify even the cheapest tasting of vodka, turning a vodka cranberry into fruit punch.

This was an amazing event and I am glad I had the chance to experience it. Having your perceptions of taste completely blown is something that mere words cannot adequately describe. Do yourself a favor and order some for yourself and friends and have your own taste tripping party. Believe me when I say it'll be worth it.
Read More......

Friday, June 19, 2009

TNBC -- The Burger Joint

Though hardly a secret anymore, The Burger Joint, hidden behind a dark curtain within the lobby of the fancy Le Parker Meridien Hotel, has become a sort of burger lovers clubhouse, with only a neon sign (and huge ass line) to indicate it's locale.




Madelyn and I met uptown on the streets, and though I had been to the burger joint once before, I was a little lost. Not my home turf, we wandered the block a bit (reminiscent of our wandering in the west village, god why am I so bad at navigating NY?)

The menu is concise, which is good because you need to be ready to order by the time you get up to the register (or, in soup nazi fashion, back of the line!). Simply tell them what you want on your burger (lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, ketchup, or mustard) and how you want it done (medium rare, as if it were a question), sodas, fries, beers, or milk shakes.



Our burgers have a flavor that reflect the method of cooking, over a real flame. The fries came in paper bags, hot to the touch. Just they way everything should be. The tiny space makes competing for a table a necessity (I had Mad snap one up while I placed our order), the bad wood paneling, the walls of autographs, and the movie posters make for a fun, kitschy environment. It certainly puts one at ease when compared tot he stuffy air of the hotel lobby. Fast food for the fancy I suppose. In fact, it was just like a high quality fast food burger (and makes me miss The Habit even more). No brioche bun or kobe beef, just an attention to how to prepare a tasty burger. Indeed, the style of presentation, the long lines, and the notoriety make it easy to draw parallels to Shake Shack (some would argue Burger Joint serving as Shake Shack's 'father') and that's not too unfair. And while Shake Shack still stands as the standard to compare everything else to, I will concede that I really (really) enjoyed everything about the fries at Burger Joint.

So yes, burgers still reign supreme in Madison Sq. Park, but don't count The Burger Joint out. It still has a certain je ne sais quoi that makes it a worthy destination for anybody interested in eating their way through NYC.
Read More......

Monday, June 15, 2009

That's just Ricest

You may have heard, I recently moved out to Crown Heights in Brooklyn. I'm not sure it's fully set in, but it means drastic changes to my life. Gone are the old roomies (save one), missed but not forgotten, and reunited are the stars of my first two years of college.



And what does this mean for my diet? Well, it's a combination of the return of old habits, the continuance of certain traditions, and the emergence of what is sure to be new opportunities.


Basic groceries do not seem to have shifted too much, though purchases at Trader Joe's may become quite infrequent (though, located in Union Square, it's not out of the question) (I have yet to see the one in Brooklyn, though am considering venturing out there soon). But it seems like I am tempted to do the majority of my grocery shopping at Target, of all places. Surprisingly, it can compete in selection with even Gristedes and Morton Williams (though, I wonder who that reflects more upon) from my past two years in Kips Bay (Food Emporium in Union Square holds a weird affectionate spot in my heart though).

When I first moved in here, after narrowly avoiding a disaster that would make the nightly news and destroy a uhaul with all of my worldly possessions, we settled onto a heap of boxes and ate at one of first pizza joints we could find on Kyle's iPhone, A Slice of Brooklyn (not to be confused with the eating tour). A few six packs and pizzas later and we were completely happy. I need to reevaluate that place because the combination of exhaustion and hunger from moving and not eating all day and the relief of having all of my stuff finally in the building it is supposed to be made it the most satisfying meal I've had in a long while. Sure the pizza was hot, the cheese melty, and it beautifully right to our door, but there was a certain bias that shaded better judgment. Not that I can fault A Slice of Brooklyn for any of this, I just think I need another shot at it.

About a week ago, we finally got around to our Alien/Aliens double feature movie night. The first movie was surrounded with pizza, again; this time out near Mad's place, complete with garlic knots that looked more like...let's say snails. Anyways, we got off to a late start and decided to put the sequel on the queue for the next night. Our friends arrive and we of course want Chinese delivery. But being out in Crown Heights, the college haunt of Yummy House is far from accessible and we start scouring the internt for options. This is when the name No. 1 Chinese Restaurant comes up. With a name like that, how could it go wrong?

We ordered, as per Kyle's constant insistence General Tso's Chicken, Madelyn's usual delight Lo Mein, a few dumplings and springs rolls to round out the meal. Mad and I tacked on our usual diet coke and coke, respectively, at the end and were delightfully surprised to find an additional two sodas (two free with a purchase over 20 bucks) (30 bucks gets you free general tso's). And I will admit, this place, while not looking like much on the street, knows how to fry up some tasty Chinese-American food. It's a place I believe in. And, like seemingly everything in Brooklyn, is a few bucks cheaper than Manhattan. The Chicken was crisp and spicy, the noodles savory and tender, and the dumplings a delicate balance of sweet and savory.

Though it may take a while until I go back, if only because I want to try a few more places just to see how they measure up, this place is one to remember. And I like the name.

I certainly miss the city but still eat there often enough. And am excited at the prospect of entering a new culinary opportunity.

Read More......

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

For want of a better life

I realize if I wanted to make this blog better, I need to figure out how to get my hands on a digital camera. A picture is worth a thousand words so, in the long run, it's probably more efficient.

In other news, I just wanted to mention that I love corndogs. I bought some frozen ones at Target and they are perfect. Corn dogs are one of those foods, like tater tots, I assume I am supposed to outgrow but never will. Read More......

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Shake Shack

Why is Shake Shack so good? Can a hamburger be worth an hour standing in line? Throngs of New Yorkers say yes. I whole heartedly agree, but do not quite understand why.


When people mention that they have never been to Shake Shack, I always say I will take them. And I have never had a disappointed friend. If I may paraphrase someone, "Shake Shack was the first burger I've had in years and it simultaneously raised my quality of life and decreased my life span." Or something to that effect.

Indeed, it is glorious but for all its splendor, the presentation is humble. I mean, I had Sliders as appetizers that look bigger than this burger. I've ordered burgers in linen table-clothed restaurants that I don't care to remember how much I spent to add a slice of "Vermont aged organic sharp cheddar" to my half pound "Kobe Sirloin" patty. And yet, I'm never happier with a burger than sitting on a hard metal folding chair in the freezing cold or blistering heat, with this simple thing, adorned with only a leaf of green lettuce, a red tomato disc, and a few chopped onions. And I have never left unsatisfied or less than stuffed. If I lived any closer to Shake Shack, sometimes I think the walk wouldn't be long enough to recover from it.

How can something this unassuming be so...perfect?

Sometimes I think if I took the burger out of the shack, how I would feel about it. Would I be so attached? Would I wait anywhere else for this burger? It is hard to say. If this was some famous bar burger that had a similar line out the door, I might skip it and go elsewhere. Then again, I've waited more than a few minutes before for a booth at Corner Bistro (granted, I have usually just learned to avoid it at high traffic hours). Certainly though, never the proportions that I have for shake shack. In fact, the only place I have ever waited longer for food is Grimaldi's, and that is a similar legendary wait-experience. Maybe it's the distance, but even the quality of Grimaldi's pizza, though, does not have me running back as frequently as shake shack does.

I'm certain that my favorite part of any burger meal, the fries, are not the strongest at shake shack. Aside from obviously favoring the spuds at Pomme Frite, I think even places like The Sidewalk Cafe's cajun fries (certainly some frozen variety) are, objectively, tastier.

So, again, why am I constantly drawn back to Shake Shack? Why does everyone else perk up at the mention? Why does everyone love it so gosh darn much?

Perhaps there's some merit to the Gestalt principle, the whole is more than the sum of the parts.

As a side note, one day, to be adventurous, I got the hot dog instead of the burger. While not bad, just don't waste a trip in line on it. Not worth it. Unlike the burger.

Read More......

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

"Put Some South in Yo' Mouth"

I like meat. Ever since I was a kid, I have always been a steak and potatoes kind of guy. I have fond memories of eating at Woody's back home, they used to run an all you can eat ribs special and I remember wearing that bracelet proudly. Which explains why I am always game for Brother Jimmy's Monday night special: All You Can Eat Hot Wings, Rib Tips, and Bud Light.


While I am not from the South, nor claim to be well versed in Southern culture, I still enjoy delicious BBQ (not to be confused with Dallas BBQ). And while Brother Jimmy's may seem a little tacky, I still kinda like drinking out of mason jars. Baseball on a few screens around the room was also nice.

Was there ever a pair better suited together than beer and hot wings? They are the Bill and Ted of the gastronomic world, an excellent adventure. Throw in some ribs and it's like George Carlin telling them they are gonna save music. And Brother Jimmy's has only improved their hot wings since the last time I've been there, which is quite impressive. I'm not sure why, but I have really been coming around to Blue Cheese with wings. And the rib tips were well executed as per usual, fall off the bone tender. I recommend the Honey Mustard sauce or possibly the Chipotle, but all are pretty good. Well, except the Carolina. Trying for a vinegar based sauce, it just comes out watery and bland. Disappointing. But all in all, it's a pretty balanced meal: You have carbs (beer), protein (beef and chicken), and fats (blue cheese and buffalo sauce). Gotta have all of the food groups represented.

This time out, I do feel a little bad that I couldn't quite eat as much as I hoped. We didn't even quite clear 4 platters of food (between 5 of us) but at least we made it to the bottom of 6 pitchers. So that's something. And then there's always next Monday.

But it's night like these that make you realize just how good it is to eat with friends. You feel a little sick but know it's worth every little bit. Wouldn't trade moments like these for the world.
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Monday, May 25, 2009

Do You Want Fries With That

“Every country possesses, it seems, the sort of cuisine it deserves, which is to say the sort of cuisine it is appreciative enough to want.”
-- Waverley Root

The paper crinkled as I wadded the wrapper and threw it into the bottom of the empty and grease stained bag. Out of the countless times I had gone through this motion, I had never realized until now that it really was like unwrapping a present on Christmas day. I could feel the oily salt adhere to my fingers as I plucked clumps of French fries from their red cardboard sleeve. I unabashedly licked the savory residue off each digit before digging back into the cheeseburger, pillowy soft all the way through. This was the reassuring taste of nostalgia, of childhood and home, that I so desperately missed. Truly, eating under the glow of those golden arches is what it means to be an American. Which was a little jarring considering I was spending my summer on a foreign exchange program in Japan. The commercialization and industrialization of food, on a transnational scale, has drastically changed how people see food; that is, with an emerging homogenous world cuisine. And no other industry better exemplifies this concept of corporate globalization than fast food.
Americans spend an estimated 90 percent of their food budget on processed and packaged goods. We spend over 110 billion dollars annually on fast food; more money than movies, books, magazines, newspapers, videos, and music – combined. It has penetrated so deep into our culture that it is no wonder that works like Fast Food Nation and Super Size Me grabbed national attention. When Peter Menzel and Faith D’Aluisio went around the world looking at what families eat in a week, American families like the Revises of North Carolina seem prime examples of how pervasive the fast food industry has become.
Ron, a trim, fit man, works out mainly for the cardio benefits…But he eats fast food for lunch five days a week…The work outs were great, but there was an unintentional by-product: they had less time for home-cooked meals. “We would pick up fast food. It was the most convenient thing to do. That is not the result that we had in mind when we started this exercise program.”

Spending nearly 72 dollars every week on fast food, it makes up over 20 percent of their food expenditure. And they are hardly an outlier in this regard. As they said, fast food has simply become “the most convenient thing to do.” Indeed, as Michael Pollan points out, fast food is specifically designed for convenience (and unashamedly so, with a moniker such as ‘fast food’): from cup holders to support the quart of coke each passenger requires, the drive-thrus that eliminate the need to get out of the car, and the tailored concepts of foods like Chicken McNuggets that can be consumed one handed (without the pesky need for a plate or utensils), it is no wonder that up to 19 percent of American meals are eaten in the car. Through science and technology we have revolutionized both what and how we eat.
It was this very notion of modern worldliness that allowed McDonald’s and other fast food corporations to permeate throughout the rest of the world. Even political barriers such as the Soviet-American tensions could not prevent the golden arches from spanning into Russia
In 1995, my landlady Anya, a retired geologist, recalled that when McDonald’s and the pizza restaurants first opened in Moscow, it was precisely their foreignness that prompted long lines of curious customers.

Yet, as Caldwell soon discovered, though lines were out the door for the experience, many Muscovites, especially the older generation, could not quite understand the appeal of the actual taste of the food. Similarly in China, though families flocked to the eatery, adults generally avoided the food themselves, instead going for the experience—especially for the sake of their children.
Yan also discovered that working-class Beijing residents save up to take their kids to McDonald’s and hover over them as they munch. (Later the adults eat in a cheaper, Chinese-style restaurant.) Parents told Yan that they wanted their children to “connect” with the world outside China. To them, McDonald’s was an important stop on the way to Harvard Business School or the MIT labs.

To these people, McDonald’s is not necessarily the convenience that so many Americans like the Revis family use to make their daily routines easier. It is a gateway into a larger world scale society—especially for the sake of their children.
And it seems to be working; though their parents are still hesitant to eat a Big Mac, the kids have taken quite a liking to them. Just as Caldwell found adults questioning why anyone would be coming back for the food at McDonald’s, interviews with schoolchildren proved to show just the opposite: that McDonald’s has become so commonplace that the children readily identified it as Russian food. And when University of Hong Kong students complained of missing home-style cooking while in Taipei, all they said that they wanted was McDonald’s. From young girls in the Australian Outback considering Mackas (Aussie slang for McDonald’s) “their culinary mecca,” Samurai Colonial Sanders attracting children’s eyes in Tokyo, and college students in France compromising their culinary beliefs “when pressed for time…[ducking] into the nearest McDonald’s,” a new generation around the world is growing up accustomed to the fast food lifestyle.
But this childhood adoration of fast food may simply be that, childhood adoration. Not just foreign adults just now facing challenges to traditional home cooking, but even for the millions of American adults who grew up raised on a diet rich in fast food are starting to turn against it.
I ate a lot of McDonald’s as a kid…I loved everything about fast food…Whatever it is (surely food scientists know), for countless millions of people living now, this generic fast-food flavor is one of the unerasable smells and tastes of childhood – which makes it a kind of comfort food…but after a few bites I’m more inclined to think they’re selling something more schematic than that—something more like a signifier of comfort food…And so it goes, bite after bite, until you feel not satisfied exactly, but simply, regrettably, full.
A backlash is emerging; people are becoming more and more aware of the unsettling notion that their hamburger may be more than just beef and a bun. What is “grill seasoning”? Or even for that matter, what kind of cow is this beef coming from? What has it been eating? It is questions like these that have spurred on a counterculture, looking to revolutionize society and lifestyle, centered on changing what and how we eat. Or rather reverting back to what and how we ate.
A consumerist theme targeted foods to be avoided, especially chemicalized “plastic” foods. A therapeutic theme had to do with positive concerns for pleasure and identity, particularly a hunger for craftsmanship, leisure, and tradition. Concerned with the integration of self, nature and community, an organic motif addressed serious issues of production and distribution, that is, how to reconcile private consumption with wider planetary needs.

It was a movement in direct opposition to everything that seemed to make McDonald’s and fast food so appealing in the first place. Should the burger I ate in urban Japan taste exactly the same as ones from my California suburban childhood? What about the notion that “not only is it served in a flash, but more often than not it’s eaten that way too…”? Or that it is food that necessitates families “eating alone together”?
Part of the problem is that these values of the “old-fashioned, traditional, nostalgic” and being “more honest, simple, and virtuous” are an extreme to which one must fully commit both time and skill. And most people just cannot make those sacrifices, which is why, though criticism like Pollan’s and Schlosser’s makes us more aware of the problems, there needs to be alternatives to these two extremes. For all of their faults, industry, science, and technology have made food cheaper. And for a world with an ever growing population, that is a good thing. Some consider McDonald’s as a form of “cultural imperialism,” that “the rapid spread of McDonald’s and its fast-food rivals undermines indigenous cuisines and helps create a homogenous, global culture.”
In this time at the beginning of the new millennium it is not unusual to hear intelligent people say that the era of the nation state and national culture is ending and a brave new world of global consumer culture, multinational economies, and transnational migration is upon us.

But is this really true? Yes, the burgers taste the same everywhere but at the same time, each culture has taken this bland, amorphous thing, and domesticated it. Whether you call it “glocalization” or that McDonald’s has become “multilocal” it is obvious that it is too easy to see only the one dimension of imperialism with fast food. Things are not that black and white. The deeper we look at cultures, and people, the more complex things become. And what if things are becoming more transnational? Is it so bad for a guy in Boston to grow up with a similar food memory as a woman in Beijing? Food is a strong unifier, and as we become more and more removed from community in one sense, sometimes even the most tenuous tie can keep us bound together in another.

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Sunday, May 24, 2009

Too Young to Care

I promised myself after finishing college that, amongst other things, I would start eating better. Coupled with the fact that I am broke, you'd think I simply would finish the 10 pounds of pasta sitting in the pantry before we move out of here. Instead, in true unemployed hedonism, I've been eating just as poorly.


I've written ad naseum about Professor Thom's before, but I really love this place to death. It's sorta one of my favorite bars. Also, thanks to Lost Night, I have a regular bartender! She was very happy to see me on Saturday and I dunno if I should feel like it's Cheers or time for AA. Either way, after a day at shopping in SOHO (I love Uni Qlo) with Kyle and Julia, I met Jill at the park, to enjoy the fountain slash grumble about not graduating there, then we headed to the bar to grab a drink and catch the Sox game. Though I no longer have team affiliations really (I used to support the Dodgers), I still love the game. And beer. And Fish and Chips. Though it was a Saturday Night, fleet week, and a beautiful day, the bar was busy but not packed and lively but not noisy. PT's is truly how I want my sports bar to be. Even if it is a Sox bar. It still feels like home. And as always, get the nachos, they feed an army.

And tonight, Julia, in her infinite kindness, called me up and told me she was near Boston Market and picking up dinner. Awesome. I rounded out the night with some Birra Moretti and pudding packs. And while chain food has a lot of flaws inherent in its very nature, I love the shit out of Boston Market (and Panda Express for that matter, someone needs to open a Panda Express in Manhattan. doooo it.).

Two nights ago, we drank Forties, Olde English, so Jules could knock that off the old to do list in her life, and I was instantly reminded of how old I am. Though it got better over the next hour or so, I forgot how bad it tastes. And how I'd rather drink beer from a glass with greasy food and friends than from a brown paper bag. Even if it costs me 5 times as much.

Stay tuned because someone is making one last run at Brother Jimmy's tomorrow, and it promises to be a good one.
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Saturday, May 16, 2009

Lists

There's been a lot on my (figurative) plate these last few weeks, and though I've been eating I have not had a lot of time to write about it.


Things I have eaten recently:
Breakfast for family dinner (french toast, bacon, cheddar home fries, mimosa)
Brunch with the club at Virage
The worst pizza I have ever eaten
The saddest pizza I have ever made
Senior bar night
Freshman booze night
Sushi and Ice cream (and the idea of ice cream sushi)
Cinco de Mayo
Thai food with friends from Boston
Free food with the Star Trek experience
Free food at grad alley
Late night nosh with the parents
Graduation celebration with fish tacos and margaritas
Pine family hosted get together
3 course Thai meal parting gift
Chicken and rice part two
And it goes on and on and on and on
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Wednesday, April 29, 2009

We Spent Warm Summer Days Wishing They Would Never End

The temperatures are finally starting to rise here in NYC and that was ushered in with one thing: Fla-Vor-Ice.

I have had my fair share of Popsicles growing up but I never really had flavor ices until my friends moved into their first apartment on A and 10th. This place was amazing and I have a lot of fun memories associated with it. It was spacious, the floors were (slightly warped) hardwood, rooftop access, and no AC. At the top of a 5 story walk up. When it's like 190 degrees outside and you climb that many flights of stairs, you want something cold, sweet, and brightly colored. We spent late summer nights surrounded with discarded cellophane tubes and video game controllers. My favorite thing about flavor ice is that, like so many processed foods, they are just colors not flavors: "I want a blue one" never "I hate lime"

And while I always remember cold, clear winter nights and the walk to and fro their apartment listening to Band of Horses, Flavor Ice is still my first association with their old place. And summers in NYC. The first, but certainly not the last.

In the words of the greatest cartoon character to ever see print:
"It isn't summer if your tongue isn't purple"
--Calvin, Calvin and Hobbes

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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Fish Tacos. Alex Loves Them.

This article was brought to my attention by my roommate Kyle. Ezra Klein was able to eloquently put forth my exact experiences in regards to food in a new urban environment (though, I am not nearly as opposed to NYC as he). I have often lamented the lack of 'authentic' (what that really means is a debate I don't want to get into right now) mexican cuisine (since I too grew up in southern California suburbs) but, he's right; in reality I miss the nostalgia of taco memories with friends, tastes linked strongly to emotions.

"But as a Californian, I can still diss on DC’s food scene. Ask me about tacos sometime. Ask me about fish tacos sometime. And breakfast burritos. And what food tastes like right after a surf. And the appropriate frequency with which avocado should appear on my plate. But my dear friends who spend their days complaining about DC’s relative inadequacy are suffering, I think, from a crucial misconception: Namely, DC is not supposed to taste like your childhood home."

And He's right. So what does my new 'home away from home' taste like?


Part of the problem here in NYC is the sheer number of restaurants. It's easy to eat at a new place every day if you wanted. And I mean of the year if not the rest of your life. But I still have a few places I frequent more than others. Part of it is that I've lived in four different apartments in four years. But I can walk to all 4 of my old buildings in a matter of minutes. Part of it is that I've known the people back home for years. But aside from the fact that I live with Alex, who I've known for over a decade (damn, we are OLD), my other roommates are more important to me than I sometimes care to admit, that others prove to be more than amazing, or that even my friends back home I knew for less than three years before leaving them behind.

So do I have a favorite place that's less about the food than it is the memories? It's hard to say because I'm hit with both what seems a resounding flood of affirmatives at onset and a deadening silence of negative at specificity.

And so I sit here, realizing that, more than anything, places and tastes seem indelibly linked to not senses of home but of senses of friends. Something I think I'll write about soon.
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Sunday, April 12, 2009

Home is where the heart is?

I'm really sorry about these puns, titles lately have become harder to come up with than I am used to. Anyways, I think I have recently mentioned my love of bar dining culture: fried foods and booze. And I still dream of going back to Sunset in Boston. With that taste still lingering in my mind and on the tip of my tongue, I asked my friend Josh, visiting from UC Berkeley, to join us for dinner at Heartland Brewery.


Heartland brewery is everything one would expect from a gastropub: distinct beers and hot food.

I had a Buffalo Bock and a Pulled Pork Sandwich with cajun fries. The Bock was dense and cut and the Pork's tangy sweetness that accented well with the seasoning of the fries. It was a mess for sure, but all barbecue should be.

To be fair, this draft has been sitting half written for too long. And I just need to get this out of my system.
A little pricey, to be sure, and I could never afford to make it a local hang out (much as I wish I could) but worth it.

But looking back, I enjoyed my experience thoroughly. Maybe it was the company, but I now have a fond association of this place. I think it's the perfect place to meet with an old friend, have a solid beer and a good meal, and both catch up on new developments and reminisce of fond memories.

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Family Dinner part deux

It's been a few weeks, but I might as well post the dinner menu that I made. A butterflied and Broiled whole chicken, garlic mashed potatoes, and cornbread. A simple, comfort food dinner.


The corn bread was nothing special, from an instant mix I picked up at Trader Joe's. It was still delicious, and probably my favorite part of the meal.

The potatoes (for 4) were peeled and cubed and brought to a boil in a cold, salted pot of water.
While they cooked, a cup of milk, 2 tablespoons of butter, and 3 cloves of garlic (crushed) were set to warm over a low heat.
About 30 minutes later, the cubes were easily pierced with a knife. The potatoes were drained, and returned to the pot to evaporate off excess water. The dairy mixture was strained and slowly added to the potatoes as I mashed them. I probably used about 2/3 of the liquid. I also threw in some grated cheddar for full effect.

The chicken was prepared in the same way as I learned from this episode of Good Eats.




Though cooking time proved to be a lot longer than I expected (and still came out a little wrong). So I obviously need to practice more, and maybe adjust my racks.
I also thickened the jus with a white roux to give it a little more body.

A little wine and ice cream sandwiches capped off the night. A solid B performance, good participation with a lack of attention to detail.
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Monday, April 6, 2009

10 books that changed the world

Perhaps that's a bit of hyperbole, but this list of books is the perfect foundation to any aspiring food scholar. I have chosen each book from first hand experience, reputation, and significance. Part of the reason why I love studying food is that I get a chance to use it as a lens to see everything else and with that in mind I made sure to cover the spectrum: science, art, history, politics, economics, anthropology, and of course how-to. All these aspects are covered in these 10 books, primed and vetted from both popular culture and peer review.

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee
This is the classically essential book. If you ever wanted to learn anything about food and cooking this is it. It’s the book that my idol, Alton Brown, reads. It’s the one book that anybody who is serious about cooking needs to read. It's the alpha and omega. Start and end your library with this.

What Einstein Told His Cook by Robert Wolke
This lovely read addresses the everyday questions that pop into your head. He breaks down concepts and illustrates them with wonderful recipes. The perfect read for the amateur or casual chef who is curious about how things work.

Molecular Gastronomy by Herve This
The world’s only degree holding molecular gastronomist, Herve This has revolutionized the field of study. He explores the phenomena of taste, smell, and perception. He debunks the old myths about cooking. He beautifully blends science and cooking into an understandable art form.

The Oxford Companion to Food by Alan Davidson
No encyclopedia is as definitive or as entertaining as Davidson’s. A huge and authoritative dictionary of 2,650 entries on just about every conceivable foodstuff, seasoning, cuisine, cooking method, historical survey, significant personage, and explication of myth, it is supplemented by some 40 longer articles on key items. If you love reading wikipedia articles, getting side tracked into others again and again, this is the encyclopedia for you.

The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery by Escoffier
There is a reason that even today, every culinary student is given a copy of this at welcome week. It is still the authoritative manual for Haute Cuisine.

I’m Just Here For the Food vol. 1&2 by Alton Brown
I make no attempts to hide how much Alton Brown has influenced my cooking style. These two volumes teach everything the basic home chef needs to know to make both cook (vol. 1) and bake (vol. 2) a wide variety of dishes in a practical and timely manner. Clear, concise, and also complete. Recipes are amazing but also serve as spring boards of inspiration for the home chef to add their own touches.

The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan
Michael Pollan has become a sort of guru and his book The Omnivore’s Dilemma shows why. In it he scrutinizes the major foodways that we, as both a society and an individual, are obtaining our food. And shows us things we may not have wanted to know.

Food Politics by Marion Nestle
Marion Nestle provides insights like no other into the political machine that keeps driving the food industry. Where people like Pollan and Schlosser show how the food is made, Nestle shows why. It’s a disturbing awakening to understanding how we are affected without even necessarily being aware of it.

Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser
The inspiration for people like Pollan and Morgan Spurlock’s Super Size Me. Schlosser shows every dirty speck in the prepackaged world of fast food.

Hungry Planet: What the World Eats by Peter Menzel and Faith D'Aluisio
An amazing look at how families across the world eat. It drives home not only concepts of abundance and poverty but of cross cultural exchange and international commercialization. Provocative and eye opening.
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Super Heroes

Forgive the pun of a title as I talk about Defonte's of Brooklyn, the Red Hook institution that, after over 85 years, has opened a Manhattan shop.

I first read about the opening of the shop in NY Mag, my first stop in reading about breaking local food news. And when my friend Tim wanted to meet me up here to grab a bite to eat, I ran through some options until I remembered that it was finally open and I wanted to check it out.

We met up and ventured in, around a line of people waiting for their lunchtime grub, looking up at the menu. He ordered the Hot Roast Beef (with the signature fried eggplant) and I the Sinatra Special (Steak pizzaiola with mozzarella). We would've taken a seat but were out of luck and carried them back to my place (fortunately, I heard through the grapevine that more seating space will open up soon).

I had also heard rumors that the gargantuan proportions to satisfy the longshoremen of Red Hook would be scaled down for the Manhattan crowd. So I can only imagine how big they are out in Brooklyn, because these sandwiches were beasts. Delicious beasts. Not a fan of eggplant, when I gave Tim's sandwich a taste, I was surprised at how amazing it was. And their Italian bread was superb, held up well against the jus and sauce covered behemoths.

I have always loved sandwiches (in my top 10) and I am glad to know that this place is so close.
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To do too

Nothing like puking bile for two days to cause an appetite to go disappearing, but I've almost completely bounced back and have a few before and after stories to tell (no durings, obviously).


There's the story of DeFonte's, the new Manhattan satellite of the Brooklyn staple.
Family Dinner night
Heartland Brewery
Thoughts on dining out alone and Cafetasia
Brunch Club outing to La Palapa

I'll try and bust them out quick as hare.

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Monday, March 30, 2009

As American as Apple Pie

"Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es." [Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are].
-- Brillat Savarin

Identity, the concept of how to define the self, is closely tied to one’s surroundings. Where we live, how we communicate, and most importantly, what we eat. In this sense, culture can be defined by cuisine. But since man first started to draw borders around nations, trying to define themselves, people have crossed those borders. And with them, they bring the culture, the cuisine, of nations outside those borders. This cross cultural exchange is paradoxically two-fold: on one front, it blurs cultural divides, creating a more global and interconnected society; and on the other hand it reinforces aspects of one’s own culture by taking something foreign and transforming it, domesticating it. This cross cultural interaction is clearly exemplified in the evolution of a nation’s cuisine; how it adopts new ingredients and techniques and makes them unique to its own culture. And no nation has had a bigger influence, both importing and exporting, in cuisine than the United States of America.
While making dinner one night, I asked my roommates to name some ‘American foods’ and while a few answers were expected (hamburgers, Coca-cola, etc.), one in particular stimulated further debate: burritos. Are burritos American cuisine? Growing up in Southern California, they were certainly a typical meal for me. The obvious argument is that burritos are Mexican (popular tradition asserts that it was invented in Northwestern Mexico in the mid 19th century , though definitive facts are hazy at best.) and therefore cannot be a part of ‘American cuisine.’ But like pizza’s relationship to Italy , the burrito’s relationship to Mexico seems to be one more for the sake of Americans than for natives of these countries. Americans have adopted, cultivated, and bred the burrito to fit domestic tastes, tastes that have become quite divergent from their Mexican roots. In “Comida Sin Par,” Sylvia Ferrero explores Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles with her Mexican friend Elia.
Of course [Elia] was aware that those restaurants were not for “real Mexican people” and that the food was either “Americanized,” as she kept saying, or “standardized”…Thus the menus of many Mexican restaurants in different areas of Los Angeles demonstrate that their customers are considered as tourist diners who lack the knowledge to demand authenticity of Mexican food.

So the burrito, and chances are most ‘Mexican food,’ that I recognize from my past (and still eat to this day) is too American to really be considered ‘authentic.’ This food was a concept that was carried over through the traditions of immigrants, eventually taken in by the community at large, and adapted to its new surroundings.
Indeed, that is a reasonable approximation of the history of the United States in general. At just over 200 years old, the United States is an infant of a nation, a mere seven generations, compared to the deep cultural tradition of the rest of the world. The United States is also the last bastion of immigrants, perpetually seeking to pick themselves up and improve their lot in life. And with them comes their traditions, brought into ours; a cultural melting pot as it were. This idea of a hodge podge of foods to make up a national cuisine is a notion that was brought to Sidney Mintz’s attention in a discussion about ‘American cuisine’ or lack thereof.
He talked happily about ‘eating Thai’ one night, and ‘eating Chinese’ the next, and asked rather plaintively whether that couldn’t be ‘our cuisine.’ He plainly felt that having access to a lot of different ‘cuisines’ was a wonderful idea—and certainly better than meatloaf.

This brings up the concepts of both commodification and simplifying nations to basic symbols.
In fact, this concept of making distinct cuisines aspects of the American culture is exactly how Belize started to form its own national culinary identity. Belize, like the United States, is a nation that was founded and shaped by colonists and immigrants. This explains why as Richard Wilk researched the history of Belizean food, its past is so brief.
The first published mention I have been able to find of national food is in the early 1960s, when an American expatriate called rice and beans the ‘national dish’ and noted that it was served with potato salad made with imported ingredients.

Not only does written record of any national cuisine go back barely 50 years, not even two generations, it is also made up of food with imported ingredients. How can a dish used to symbolize a nation rely on food from outside the nation? As Wilk goes on, he explains that not only is Belizean food imported, but even the concept of national cuisine had to be imported into the country.
In a similar way, the public, self conscious version of Belizean national food owes more to the Belizeans living in the United States than it does to Belize itself…the idea that [Belizean food] was unique, special, and part of a national identity was largely prompted by the processes of migration and tourism. Belizean restaurants in the United States were the first to portray their food as part of the national character. Migrants returned to Belize from the United States and carried the idea of a national cuisine home. In 1990 the first self-proclaimed Belizean restaurant in Belize was opened by a couple that had just returned from living in Los Angeles for twenty years.

Though it was food that the people of Belize had always been eating, the concept that it was authentically and uniquely theirs was one that had to come from the influence of the United States.
The United States has had, arguably, more influence in the global diet than any other nation. Nothing makes this more evident than the photo journalism of Peter Menzel and Faith D’Aluisio’s Hungry Planet: What the World Eats.
Peter Menzel and I invited ourselves to dinner with 30 families in 24 countries to explore humankind’s oldest social activity: eating. Anyone who remembers grocery shopping 20 years ago knows that the U.S. diet has changed rapidly, but fewer people realize that this transformation is worldwide. Some dietary changes are due to globalization as largescale capitalism reaches new places…And some changes are due to the tides of migration, as travelers, immigrants, and refugees bring their own foods to new lands and acquire new tastes in return.

The photos of families, from around the globe, with a week’s worth of food before them speak volumes to this effect. From Australia to Greenland, China to Egypt, the familiar names of Kellogg’s Corn Flakes, Heinz’s Ketchup, and Kraft cheddar penetrate into the homes of families who have never set foot in the United States. Even if ‘American cuisine’ is still up for debate, at the very least these products represent ‘American food.’ And no product is as ubiquitous as the Atlanta based beverage Coca-cola.
Coca-cola not only serves as a symbol of the United States but also represents modernity, which partly explains why it has been so universally embraced as the beverage of choice in this increasingly interconnected globe. A classmate who grew up in Africa revealed the anecdote that while traveling, one always stopped at the gas stations and shops with neon Coke signs. They were shining beacons of not just soda, but of food, water, electricity, modernity. This imagery of coke as American modernity is furthered by how the people of Trinidad have fully adopted it into their culture.
For example, sweet drinks are never viewed as imported luxuries that the country or people cannot afford. On the contrary, they are viewed as Trinidadian, as basic necessities and as the common person’s drink…no one but the most destitute would request water per se while ordering a meal or snack.

Coca-cola has become so integral to life in Trinidad that it is considered a necessity of society: living without it is possible, but is a clear sign of poverty. Coca cola has been localized to such a degree in Trinidad that it defines what they drink, and therefore who they are. A black sweet drink from Atlanta, defining Trinidad.
Commercialization is a strong driving force behind globalization. It has touched cultures in ways that it never intended to. It has changed how we, not as nations, but as a world, eat.
In this time at the beginning of the new millennium it is not unusual to hear intelligent people ay that the era of the nation state and national culture is ending and a brave new world of global consumer culture, multinational economies, and transnational migration is upon us.

Are these people right? Are national cultures “withering away” or “on their last legs?” Certainly national cuisines are not as rigid and well defined as they once were and hybrid or fusion cuisine is emerging as a more popular force. But national identity is so closely tied to personal identity. And nobody wants to lose their sense of self. Time has proven that people seem fiercely determined not to let outside presence homogenize the world, but rather let it change and further personalize the individual. Kids in both China and France may wake up to a bowl of Kellogg’s Corn Flakes but those two cereals, despite corporate attempts, will never be eaten exactly the same. We take new things, we make them our own. It is just what we have always done. And what we always will.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

A Meal fit for a Limey

Spring Break has come to a close but as my friends came back home to roost, we went out for one last good night. Being the exact audience that I Love You, Man was catering to, we were excited to see it and of course made it a point to see it opening weekend. But inevitably, we were also hungry. So we pushed back to a later showing and decided to grab some dinner.


Because there was no real driving idea for what to eat, I suggested Waterfront Ale House because it was close to the theater, I love bar food, and I love a good draft beer. With no objections, we took a stroll up the street and get a table.

If you know me, you know my appetite is very impressionable. So for some reason a few days ago, I wanted the British culinary icon Fish and Chips. And so when I made that mention out loud, Madelyn, ever the best gastro-friend (my favorite eating partner, "We should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink." - Epicurus) I've had (despite, strangely, all of her food hang ups), immediately jumped on the bandwagon with me. What a pal.

First and foremost, Waterfront treats their waiting patrons to never ending bowls of popcorn. This generous offering tempts the broke college student to bring a ziploc, fill it up, then continue on their way to the theater. Maybe next time we'll have the foresight to bring a bag. Either way, it's a good filler as I downed my Brooklyn Lager. Points for the consideration Waterfront.

When we walked in, we saw someone's burger and I was almost swayed (I am notorious about suffering from orderer's remorse) by it but mostly got excited when I saw their fries were of the waffle cut variety, one of my faves! God I want some right now...did I mention I am easily influenced in what I want to eat? Anyways, I was ALMOST swayed, but held my ground.

And I was glad I did. Though a tad pricey, they served up a HUGE ale battered, fried fish fillet. Obviously it was a nice whitefish, and though I didn't inquire, my guess based on texture would be cod (though I wouldn't be surprised if it were haddock). It was tender on the inside and crisp on the outside, without being greasy. A generous dousing in some malt vinegar completed the picture. Though I am not a fan of tarter sauce, I gave it a try (because sometimes tastes change) and reaffirmed my dislike for the white sauce. It was so good, but also a bit heavy. Though I was starved, after about 2/3rds of the way through, I was stuffed and struggled to try and finish it (and fail). Thankfully, Mad also failed, lest I hear the end of it from her. I guess we have a sort of eating rivalry...that she always wins. I just try not to embarrass myself. One last note: it was served piping HOT. Mad and I both took a bite and were immediately put in the position of trying not to burn our mouths. So you know the kitchen didn't let it sit around.

And speaking of hot, the Waterfront sports their own bottled hot sauce. And it is potent, to the point of being uncomfortable. Unlike many hot sauces that I've had, which I describe as a slow and building burn that hits you after you think it's past, this stuff is up front and in your face about it's heat. The second it touches your tongue, you know. No one at the table could take it. And I was a member of my high school Hot Sauce Club. I've had worse, sure, but why make yourself miserable? Because you think you're a man? Ketchup for the chips, lemon for the fish; it's all good.

I was a bit jealous of Julia's Texas Dip. Thick cuts of brisket served on a baguette with a tangy barbeque sauce to dip in did look amazing. And since I had a taste of those pulled pork sliders in Boston more bbq in my diet has been creeping into the queue (looks like Brother Jimmy's may come soon again.) Anyways, I didn't get a chance to try it so I am assuming it was amazing.

All in all, Waterfront is a promising bar that I wouldn't mind visiting on occasion. While, in general, the clientele was slightly older than I would've liked, the atmosphere was high spirited. The music was not too loud (as some of my other roommates often complain of places), the kitchen makes some serious eats, and the bar stocks a number of good taps. A little pricy, sure but you certainly get what you pay for.

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Thursday, March 19, 2009

The Impression That I Get

It's Spring Break and some of the roommates and I were persuaded to make it into a roadtrip to visit some friends, celebrate a birthday, and of course, revel in St. Patrick's day. And the food was damn good too.

So I may love New York City, from expensive prices to dirty hipsters, but sometimes you just have to get away from it all, spice things up. So when we were offered a place to crash out in Boston, we agreed.

So Monday night, Alex and I pack our shit and wait for Kyle to come home so we can catch the sketchy (but less than Alex expected/hoped?) Chinatown Fung Wah bus. $15 to Boston, leaving hourly, no advance reservations required make it a staple of the college traveler. But before we left, because we're good roommates, we gave Alex his bday present a day early (Julia was with us in spirit): A monogrammed flask and personalized zippo lighter! The perfect kit for the traveling degenerate!

Anyways, Arvel bandmate and good friend Darrell met us at the bus stop (he happened to be joined by another friend, Danielle who coincidentally was meeting other friends up in Boston). So we all caught the 8pm bus heading into South Station, with a stop off at McDonald's halfway through (though we didn't actually eat anything).

Madelyn (TNBC member, Arvel bassist, and best friend) drove the 45 minutes from Franklin to come pick us up at South Station, THEN drive us BACK to her house. All at like 1am in the morning (redundant, but force of habit).

In the morning, though Mad had a few appointments in the morning, we awoke to the treats of a fresh pot of coffee and a loaf of Irish soda bread for breakfast (I did mention it was St. Patty's right?). We lounged about, cleaned ourselves up, and got decked out in the green. Upon her return, we were ushered into the car and off to her favorite brunch place: King Street Cafe. I can see why it's her favorite, with a menu carrying a deliciously genius item: Apple Crisp Waffles! Crisp waffles topped with sweet carmelized apples, brown sugar, and and whipped cream. It's like you're getting away with eating apple pie for breakfast. Actually, you are exactly getting away with eating apple pie for breakfast. Kyle's banana nut pancakes were similarly amazing, and the home fries were most savory and well seasoned potatoes I have had in some time. AND things are so much cheaper when you aren't in NYC!! This was truly the perfect way to start an amazing day.

We headed back to Mad's casa for a while, enjoying the warm weather and sunshine, throwing the football around, jumping on the trampoline, and being boys outdoors again. I just wish we were BBQing some dogs to finish this picture of Americana.

We hopped on the train into boston to meet up with Mad's friend Claire (who visited the week prior and graciously offered her floorspace to our soon to be drunkenly sleepy bodies). When I had mentioned a list of places I had read about as excellent burgers (it being Tuesday and all) in the area, everyone immediately recognized that I had said the magic words of Sunset Grill and Tap. Not only does this place have amazing burgers, ridiculously succulent pulled pork sandwiches, but carries over 100 beers on tap and 400 different bottles. You can't beat that. Anyways, my burger came topped with jack, avocado, and spicy refried beans. Even on the east coast I can't quite leave behind that southern california taste. It was delicious and the pulled pork and burger combination that night left me full late in the wee hours, even after lemon drops and glasses of Jameson. For the record, Mad (founding member of TNBC) did NOT have a burger that tuesday at it had been suggested to me that "she should be kicked out of the band" for such an infraction. This happens a lot.

I also had several delicious beers, many I had never heard of. Kyle had mead because he thinks he's a cool viking and has deluded himself into thinking it was good. It was not.

The morning after, we headed to Bagel Rising for a satiating and quick breakfast. Always love a good bacon egg cheese on a bagel. You have all your major food groups: bagels, grease and salt. Add an OJ to wash it down for some vitamins. We had to eat on the run though for all of us to catch our respective transports home. The T crawled into South Station, we said our goodbyes, and got back on the chinatown bus to go back to NYC. Mission accomplished.
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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Food for Thought

Here is a list of some of the most important things I have learned through trial and error (mostly error) in the kitchen. From one aspiring chef to another, learn from my mistakes.

5. Do not open the oven just to monitor its cooking/baking. The temperature fluctuations not only slow cooking time but could deflate any baked good trying to rise. If your oven window is too dirty to see through, it's time to clean the oven.
4. Use down time when things are cooking, cooling, or resting, to start cleaning the kitchen. If you live in NYC like me, counter space is at a premium and besides, that dishwasher will fill up with pots and pans faster than you think.
3. No matter what, there will always be a last minute rush to finish everything slash keep everything warm to serve together. Don't worry about it, your guests will be patient.
2. When baking, 9 times out of 10 you'll overmix the batter if you're not careful. Resist the urge to always get a smooth homogeneous batter. Chances are good you'll just make the batter or dough too tough. Put the spatula down and just walk away.
1. A good sharp knife and the skills to properly use it are key to efficiency in the kitchen. From being able to chop, dice, and mince to quartering a chicken, knowing how to use a knife is useful and important.
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Monday, March 9, 2009

Why the kitchen is the heart of the home

So today, on a whim I decided to make family dinner for the roomies. And I had a good time. I think we should do it more often.


It all started out with Julia buying some buttermilk to make cupcakes last week (and I helped!), based on both Magnolia recipes and food photography from Hello Naomi.

Anyways, the buttermilk sitting in our fridge was just begging to be used so after a productive day (laundry, midterm paper writing, psych studying, people watching) I thought it'd be nice to bake some biscuits. My roommates and I fucking love biscuits. As I started to make them though, I thought what would go well with these and just decided what the hell, let's make a whole meal of it.

Lemon Chicken
1/3 cup lemon juice
1/3 cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons brown sugar

Mix these, pour into ziplock gallon bag
Add chicken breasts, let marinate in fridge. Sear in pan, finish in oven.


StoveTop stuffing.
Follow box directions. Eat.

Haricot Vert
Trim beans, cook in boiling water for 5 minutes, rinse in cool water.
Saute two cloves garlic, minced, in butter. Toss in beans. Add a splash of lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Biscuits
2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
Sift together
Freeze 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) of unsalted butter, grate with a cheese grater. Work into flour(pea sized lumps). Add 1 tablespoon shortening. Put in freezer.

1 cup buttermilk
1 Tablespoon yogurt
1 egg
whisk together then pour over flour.

Dough will be sticky and messy; be careful, work as little as possible. 'Cut' out rounds and bake in 450 for 15-18 minutes.

Wine
pour into glass. Drink.

Nilla Wafers
Open box, enjoy with TV.


All in all, a delicious affair.
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Sunday, March 8, 2009

Madelyn and I met up Thursday in honor of TNBC (well at least the day starts with a T). Her unverified lead led us to a wild goose chase but concluded with a stop at Olive Tree Cafe.


I guess it's part of The Comedy Cellar, which explains why there were projections of Charlie Chaplin movies on the screens. It was fun though. And the tables were slate, designed for the patrons to draw with the house provided chalk. Mad sketched out her next painting design for me, a robot in space. It was pretty sweet. Our server was careful not to place our drinks over it as she worked. I wonder what he thought about that. I wonder what's the weirdest thing he's seen.

Obviously I had the cheeseburger. The fries were nothing spectacular; not bad just mediocre. The burger had a nice heft and came plated with plenty of lettuce, tomato, and onion to make a salad. And the brioche bun had a crusty exterior but was puffy held the juices well. It was also not split completely apart, making a nice pocket for my burger fillings, making sure things didn't slide around.

Ultimately, it was filling but forgettable (I feel like I say that a lot) It wasn't bad, and I'm sure the comedy is good here (My beer was certainly nice). But it's kitchen is altogether just another bar food kitchen (not that that is necessarily a bad thing).
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Monday, March 2, 2009

The Brunch Club

Like the breakfast club except we're not in high school. And actually we're eating brunch.

Anyways, my friends and I went to 7A for brunch on Sunday and from there good times were had and an idea was born.


I've said french fries were my favorite food (with cheeseburgers for the perfect meal) but brunch epitomizes everything I love about food: lazy weekend mornings that bleed into the afternoon, the company of good friends, a sparkling mimosa, a bottomless cup of hot coffee, and a plate of delicious food that's as flexible about the time as you are. We happily sat next to the windows, watching the snow fall again on the city streets while we were toasty warm inside. It's moments like these that are perfect. And you don't have a care in the world.

On the advice of our waiter (personally, I thought our service was pretty amazing, given how crowded the place was...our cups were never empty and when Alex asked Kyle if we had any hot sauce on the table, he brought it out without needing to be flagged down), I ordered the Huevos Rancheros, with my eggs over easy. Let me say I was not disappointed. The pico de gallo had an excellent flavor, a mild heat, and added a bright color. The mexican cheese lent a subtle creamy sweetness that could not be overlooked. And the eggs poured out a delicious river of golden goodness all over my plate. Sometimes I miss the slightly more 'authentic' mexican cuisine of the southern coast, but this was damn good.

Sometimes all it takes is the right mood and the right people to make the meal just right. And you don't brunch unhappy. And you shouldn't brunch alone.

I look forward to many more lazy sunday afternoons digging into a Belgian waffle and taking long drags off a cup of coffee idly chatting about the best things in life.



“It’s not quite breakfast, it’s not quite lunch, but it comes with a slice of cantaloupe at the end. You don’t get completely what you would at breakfast, but you get a good meal.”
-- Jacques of The Simpsons
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Tuesday, February 17, 2009

By the Books

Though I've said time and again that I like cooking and baking, and even recounted some of my forays into the kitchen, there seems something lackluster in my recipes. They're disorganized, unclear, and generally unhelpful.


I obviously look at recipes, I mean I own several cookbooks. Which I refer to often. But if you asked me, I think I don't like recipes. For one thing, I hate buying specific ingredients or tools. I'm poor. For another, sometimes my tastes don't align with others.

But honestly, part of me likes the guidelines and structure; it's sort of a safety net to make sure I don't make something completely foul. I think that's why I, and so many others, are initially drawn to baking first. It's a little more predictable I think. It reminds me a little of chemistry too (in a good way). Or something.

I WANT to believe I know enough about cooking and especially baking that I can do it, not from memory, but from intuition. I'm getting better at it, pairing spices and flavors, balancing the 5 tastes, etc. But I'm not there yet.

So I play fast and loose with the rules. Bend them to suit my situation. But rarely break them. So these "recipes" are notes. Things for me to look back on to learn from. Because I keep changing.
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Monday, February 16, 2009

Apple of my Pie

So this weekend, trying to put off doing real work, I thought about making a pie. Especially since I felt I flubbed my attempt at baked apples last week.


Except because it was procrastination, I didn't want to go through the motions of making a real pie crust (which I take way too seriously).

So I opted to make a graham cracker crust. And a crumble or streusel topping. So really it was basically just a crumble baked in a circular pan. Whatever.

2 cups graham crackers (about 8-10 of those sheets)
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/4 cup sugar

Crush crackers into a crumbly dust (I put them in a bag and then roll them with a rolling pin).
mix the butter and sugar in
form a 'crust' around the edge of a pie pan

4 medium apples, peeled, cored and diced
1/4 cup sugar

toss to combine the apples and sugar, then drain in a colander over a bowl
(let sit for about an hour or two) also save that liquid.

place the apples neatly in a fan pattern in the pan


1/4 cup oats
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup butter chilled
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger

mix all ingredients except butter. Rub in pats of butter until it's clumpy and loose.
Take the apple syrup and pour over the pie, then top with aforementioned butter/oat mixture.

Bake at 350 for 40 minutes, then let cool for at least an hour.

It's not complicated or sophisticated, but it's sweet.

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Sunday, February 15, 2009

Enthusiasm is the yeast that raises the dough


If you haven't noticed, most of my posts are not really about food. I mean, superficially, they are but when you look at the content, it's really more about memories. My love of cuisine just happens to strongly associate what I eat with what I am doing, how I form memories one may say. It's this joy that I like to capture. It's like a scrapbook centered around my stomach (not literally, obviously).

Which is why, for example, that I am drawn to things like the previously mentioned Lost Nights at the bar. I am very influenced by the atmosphere that surrounds me. When people are excited, I get excited. But when they're not, why bother? It's a problem. I don't want to eat with people that can't match the enthusiasm I want. Because it is supposed to be about more than satiating hunger. It's supposed to be fun.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. But it's why I love it.
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