Monday, March 30, 2009

As American as Apple Pie

"Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es." [Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are].
-- Brillat Savarin

Identity, the concept of how to define the self, is closely tied to one’s surroundings. Where we live, how we communicate, and most importantly, what we eat. In this sense, culture can be defined by cuisine. But since man first started to draw borders around nations, trying to define themselves, people have crossed those borders. And with them, they bring the culture, the cuisine, of nations outside those borders. This cross cultural exchange is paradoxically two-fold: on one front, it blurs cultural divides, creating a more global and interconnected society; and on the other hand it reinforces aspects of one’s own culture by taking something foreign and transforming it, domesticating it. This cross cultural interaction is clearly exemplified in the evolution of a nation’s cuisine; how it adopts new ingredients and techniques and makes them unique to its own culture. And no nation has had a bigger influence, both importing and exporting, in cuisine than the United States of America.
While making dinner one night, I asked my roommates to name some ‘American foods’ and while a few answers were expected (hamburgers, Coca-cola, etc.), one in particular stimulated further debate: burritos. Are burritos American cuisine? Growing up in Southern California, they were certainly a typical meal for me. The obvious argument is that burritos are Mexican (popular tradition asserts that it was invented in Northwestern Mexico in the mid 19th century , though definitive facts are hazy at best.) and therefore cannot be a part of ‘American cuisine.’ But like pizza’s relationship to Italy , the burrito’s relationship to Mexico seems to be one more for the sake of Americans than for natives of these countries. Americans have adopted, cultivated, and bred the burrito to fit domestic tastes, tastes that have become quite divergent from their Mexican roots. In “Comida Sin Par,” Sylvia Ferrero explores Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles with her Mexican friend Elia.
Of course [Elia] was aware that those restaurants were not for “real Mexican people” and that the food was either “Americanized,” as she kept saying, or “standardized”…Thus the menus of many Mexican restaurants in different areas of Los Angeles demonstrate that their customers are considered as tourist diners who lack the knowledge to demand authenticity of Mexican food.

So the burrito, and chances are most ‘Mexican food,’ that I recognize from my past (and still eat to this day) is too American to really be considered ‘authentic.’ This food was a concept that was carried over through the traditions of immigrants, eventually taken in by the community at large, and adapted to its new surroundings.
Indeed, that is a reasonable approximation of the history of the United States in general. At just over 200 years old, the United States is an infant of a nation, a mere seven generations, compared to the deep cultural tradition of the rest of the world. The United States is also the last bastion of immigrants, perpetually seeking to pick themselves up and improve their lot in life. And with them comes their traditions, brought into ours; a cultural melting pot as it were. This idea of a hodge podge of foods to make up a national cuisine is a notion that was brought to Sidney Mintz’s attention in a discussion about ‘American cuisine’ or lack thereof.
He talked happily about ‘eating Thai’ one night, and ‘eating Chinese’ the next, and asked rather plaintively whether that couldn’t be ‘our cuisine.’ He plainly felt that having access to a lot of different ‘cuisines’ was a wonderful idea—and certainly better than meatloaf.

This brings up the concepts of both commodification and simplifying nations to basic symbols.
In fact, this concept of making distinct cuisines aspects of the American culture is exactly how Belize started to form its own national culinary identity. Belize, like the United States, is a nation that was founded and shaped by colonists and immigrants. This explains why as Richard Wilk researched the history of Belizean food, its past is so brief.
The first published mention I have been able to find of national food is in the early 1960s, when an American expatriate called rice and beans the ‘national dish’ and noted that it was served with potato salad made with imported ingredients.

Not only does written record of any national cuisine go back barely 50 years, not even two generations, it is also made up of food with imported ingredients. How can a dish used to symbolize a nation rely on food from outside the nation? As Wilk goes on, he explains that not only is Belizean food imported, but even the concept of national cuisine had to be imported into the country.
In a similar way, the public, self conscious version of Belizean national food owes more to the Belizeans living in the United States than it does to Belize itself…the idea that [Belizean food] was unique, special, and part of a national identity was largely prompted by the processes of migration and tourism. Belizean restaurants in the United States were the first to portray their food as part of the national character. Migrants returned to Belize from the United States and carried the idea of a national cuisine home. In 1990 the first self-proclaimed Belizean restaurant in Belize was opened by a couple that had just returned from living in Los Angeles for twenty years.

Though it was food that the people of Belize had always been eating, the concept that it was authentically and uniquely theirs was one that had to come from the influence of the United States.
The United States has had, arguably, more influence in the global diet than any other nation. Nothing makes this more evident than the photo journalism of Peter Menzel and Faith D’Aluisio’s Hungry Planet: What the World Eats.
Peter Menzel and I invited ourselves to dinner with 30 families in 24 countries to explore humankind’s oldest social activity: eating. Anyone who remembers grocery shopping 20 years ago knows that the U.S. diet has changed rapidly, but fewer people realize that this transformation is worldwide. Some dietary changes are due to globalization as largescale capitalism reaches new places…And some changes are due to the tides of migration, as travelers, immigrants, and refugees bring their own foods to new lands and acquire new tastes in return.

The photos of families, from around the globe, with a week’s worth of food before them speak volumes to this effect. From Australia to Greenland, China to Egypt, the familiar names of Kellogg’s Corn Flakes, Heinz’s Ketchup, and Kraft cheddar penetrate into the homes of families who have never set foot in the United States. Even if ‘American cuisine’ is still up for debate, at the very least these products represent ‘American food.’ And no product is as ubiquitous as the Atlanta based beverage Coca-cola.
Coca-cola not only serves as a symbol of the United States but also represents modernity, which partly explains why it has been so universally embraced as the beverage of choice in this increasingly interconnected globe. A classmate who grew up in Africa revealed the anecdote that while traveling, one always stopped at the gas stations and shops with neon Coke signs. They were shining beacons of not just soda, but of food, water, electricity, modernity. This imagery of coke as American modernity is furthered by how the people of Trinidad have fully adopted it into their culture.
For example, sweet drinks are never viewed as imported luxuries that the country or people cannot afford. On the contrary, they are viewed as Trinidadian, as basic necessities and as the common person’s drink…no one but the most destitute would request water per se while ordering a meal or snack.

Coca-cola has become so integral to life in Trinidad that it is considered a necessity of society: living without it is possible, but is a clear sign of poverty. Coca cola has been localized to such a degree in Trinidad that it defines what they drink, and therefore who they are. A black sweet drink from Atlanta, defining Trinidad.
Commercialization is a strong driving force behind globalization. It has touched cultures in ways that it never intended to. It has changed how we, not as nations, but as a world, eat.
In this time at the beginning of the new millennium it is not unusual to hear intelligent people ay that the era of the nation state and national culture is ending and a brave new world of global consumer culture, multinational economies, and transnational migration is upon us.

Are these people right? Are national cultures “withering away” or “on their last legs?” Certainly national cuisines are not as rigid and well defined as they once were and hybrid or fusion cuisine is emerging as a more popular force. But national identity is so closely tied to personal identity. And nobody wants to lose their sense of self. Time has proven that people seem fiercely determined not to let outside presence homogenize the world, but rather let it change and further personalize the individual. Kids in both China and France may wake up to a bowl of Kellogg’s Corn Flakes but those two cereals, despite corporate attempts, will never be eaten exactly the same. We take new things, we make them our own. It is just what we have always done. And what we always will.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

A Meal fit for a Limey

Spring Break has come to a close but as my friends came back home to roost, we went out for one last good night. Being the exact audience that I Love You, Man was catering to, we were excited to see it and of course made it a point to see it opening weekend. But inevitably, we were also hungry. So we pushed back to a later showing and decided to grab some dinner.


Because there was no real driving idea for what to eat, I suggested Waterfront Ale House because it was close to the theater, I love bar food, and I love a good draft beer. With no objections, we took a stroll up the street and get a table.

If you know me, you know my appetite is very impressionable. So for some reason a few days ago, I wanted the British culinary icon Fish and Chips. And so when I made that mention out loud, Madelyn, ever the best gastro-friend (my favorite eating partner, "We should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink." - Epicurus) I've had (despite, strangely, all of her food hang ups), immediately jumped on the bandwagon with me. What a pal.

First and foremost, Waterfront treats their waiting patrons to never ending bowls of popcorn. This generous offering tempts the broke college student to bring a ziploc, fill it up, then continue on their way to the theater. Maybe next time we'll have the foresight to bring a bag. Either way, it's a good filler as I downed my Brooklyn Lager. Points for the consideration Waterfront.

When we walked in, we saw someone's burger and I was almost swayed (I am notorious about suffering from orderer's remorse) by it but mostly got excited when I saw their fries were of the waffle cut variety, one of my faves! God I want some right now...did I mention I am easily influenced in what I want to eat? Anyways, I was ALMOST swayed, but held my ground.

And I was glad I did. Though a tad pricey, they served up a HUGE ale battered, fried fish fillet. Obviously it was a nice whitefish, and though I didn't inquire, my guess based on texture would be cod (though I wouldn't be surprised if it were haddock). It was tender on the inside and crisp on the outside, without being greasy. A generous dousing in some malt vinegar completed the picture. Though I am not a fan of tarter sauce, I gave it a try (because sometimes tastes change) and reaffirmed my dislike for the white sauce. It was so good, but also a bit heavy. Though I was starved, after about 2/3rds of the way through, I was stuffed and struggled to try and finish it (and fail). Thankfully, Mad also failed, lest I hear the end of it from her. I guess we have a sort of eating rivalry...that she always wins. I just try not to embarrass myself. One last note: it was served piping HOT. Mad and I both took a bite and were immediately put in the position of trying not to burn our mouths. So you know the kitchen didn't let it sit around.

And speaking of hot, the Waterfront sports their own bottled hot sauce. And it is potent, to the point of being uncomfortable. Unlike many hot sauces that I've had, which I describe as a slow and building burn that hits you after you think it's past, this stuff is up front and in your face about it's heat. The second it touches your tongue, you know. No one at the table could take it. And I was a member of my high school Hot Sauce Club. I've had worse, sure, but why make yourself miserable? Because you think you're a man? Ketchup for the chips, lemon for the fish; it's all good.

I was a bit jealous of Julia's Texas Dip. Thick cuts of brisket served on a baguette with a tangy barbeque sauce to dip in did look amazing. And since I had a taste of those pulled pork sliders in Boston more bbq in my diet has been creeping into the queue (looks like Brother Jimmy's may come soon again.) Anyways, I didn't get a chance to try it so I am assuming it was amazing.

All in all, Waterfront is a promising bar that I wouldn't mind visiting on occasion. While, in general, the clientele was slightly older than I would've liked, the atmosphere was high spirited. The music was not too loud (as some of my other roommates often complain of places), the kitchen makes some serious eats, and the bar stocks a number of good taps. A little pricy, sure but you certainly get what you pay for.

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Thursday, March 19, 2009

The Impression That I Get

It's Spring Break and some of the roommates and I were persuaded to make it into a roadtrip to visit some friends, celebrate a birthday, and of course, revel in St. Patrick's day. And the food was damn good too.

So I may love New York City, from expensive prices to dirty hipsters, but sometimes you just have to get away from it all, spice things up. So when we were offered a place to crash out in Boston, we agreed.

So Monday night, Alex and I pack our shit and wait for Kyle to come home so we can catch the sketchy (but less than Alex expected/hoped?) Chinatown Fung Wah bus. $15 to Boston, leaving hourly, no advance reservations required make it a staple of the college traveler. But before we left, because we're good roommates, we gave Alex his bday present a day early (Julia was with us in spirit): A monogrammed flask and personalized zippo lighter! The perfect kit for the traveling degenerate!

Anyways, Arvel bandmate and good friend Darrell met us at the bus stop (he happened to be joined by another friend, Danielle who coincidentally was meeting other friends up in Boston). So we all caught the 8pm bus heading into South Station, with a stop off at McDonald's halfway through (though we didn't actually eat anything).

Madelyn (TNBC member, Arvel bassist, and best friend) drove the 45 minutes from Franklin to come pick us up at South Station, THEN drive us BACK to her house. All at like 1am in the morning (redundant, but force of habit).

In the morning, though Mad had a few appointments in the morning, we awoke to the treats of a fresh pot of coffee and a loaf of Irish soda bread for breakfast (I did mention it was St. Patty's right?). We lounged about, cleaned ourselves up, and got decked out in the green. Upon her return, we were ushered into the car and off to her favorite brunch place: King Street Cafe. I can see why it's her favorite, with a menu carrying a deliciously genius item: Apple Crisp Waffles! Crisp waffles topped with sweet carmelized apples, brown sugar, and and whipped cream. It's like you're getting away with eating apple pie for breakfast. Actually, you are exactly getting away with eating apple pie for breakfast. Kyle's banana nut pancakes were similarly amazing, and the home fries were most savory and well seasoned potatoes I have had in some time. AND things are so much cheaper when you aren't in NYC!! This was truly the perfect way to start an amazing day.

We headed back to Mad's casa for a while, enjoying the warm weather and sunshine, throwing the football around, jumping on the trampoline, and being boys outdoors again. I just wish we were BBQing some dogs to finish this picture of Americana.

We hopped on the train into boston to meet up with Mad's friend Claire (who visited the week prior and graciously offered her floorspace to our soon to be drunkenly sleepy bodies). When I had mentioned a list of places I had read about as excellent burgers (it being Tuesday and all) in the area, everyone immediately recognized that I had said the magic words of Sunset Grill and Tap. Not only does this place have amazing burgers, ridiculously succulent pulled pork sandwiches, but carries over 100 beers on tap and 400 different bottles. You can't beat that. Anyways, my burger came topped with jack, avocado, and spicy refried beans. Even on the east coast I can't quite leave behind that southern california taste. It was delicious and the pulled pork and burger combination that night left me full late in the wee hours, even after lemon drops and glasses of Jameson. For the record, Mad (founding member of TNBC) did NOT have a burger that tuesday at it had been suggested to me that "she should be kicked out of the band" for such an infraction. This happens a lot.

I also had several delicious beers, many I had never heard of. Kyle had mead because he thinks he's a cool viking and has deluded himself into thinking it was good. It was not.

The morning after, we headed to Bagel Rising for a satiating and quick breakfast. Always love a good bacon egg cheese on a bagel. You have all your major food groups: bagels, grease and salt. Add an OJ to wash it down for some vitamins. We had to eat on the run though for all of us to catch our respective transports home. The T crawled into South Station, we said our goodbyes, and got back on the chinatown bus to go back to NYC. Mission accomplished.
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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Food for Thought

Here is a list of some of the most important things I have learned through trial and error (mostly error) in the kitchen. From one aspiring chef to another, learn from my mistakes.

5. Do not open the oven just to monitor its cooking/baking. The temperature fluctuations not only slow cooking time but could deflate any baked good trying to rise. If your oven window is too dirty to see through, it's time to clean the oven.
4. Use down time when things are cooking, cooling, or resting, to start cleaning the kitchen. If you live in NYC like me, counter space is at a premium and besides, that dishwasher will fill up with pots and pans faster than you think.
3. No matter what, there will always be a last minute rush to finish everything slash keep everything warm to serve together. Don't worry about it, your guests will be patient.
2. When baking, 9 times out of 10 you'll overmix the batter if you're not careful. Resist the urge to always get a smooth homogeneous batter. Chances are good you'll just make the batter or dough too tough. Put the spatula down and just walk away.
1. A good sharp knife and the skills to properly use it are key to efficiency in the kitchen. From being able to chop, dice, and mince to quartering a chicken, knowing how to use a knife is useful and important.
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Monday, March 9, 2009

Why the kitchen is the heart of the home

So today, on a whim I decided to make family dinner for the roomies. And I had a good time. I think we should do it more often.


It all started out with Julia buying some buttermilk to make cupcakes last week (and I helped!), based on both Magnolia recipes and food photography from Hello Naomi.

Anyways, the buttermilk sitting in our fridge was just begging to be used so after a productive day (laundry, midterm paper writing, psych studying, people watching) I thought it'd be nice to bake some biscuits. My roommates and I fucking love biscuits. As I started to make them though, I thought what would go well with these and just decided what the hell, let's make a whole meal of it.

Lemon Chicken
1/3 cup lemon juice
1/3 cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons brown sugar

Mix these, pour into ziplock gallon bag
Add chicken breasts, let marinate in fridge. Sear in pan, finish in oven.


StoveTop stuffing.
Follow box directions. Eat.

Haricot Vert
Trim beans, cook in boiling water for 5 minutes, rinse in cool water.
Saute two cloves garlic, minced, in butter. Toss in beans. Add a splash of lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Biscuits
2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
Sift together
Freeze 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) of unsalted butter, grate with a cheese grater. Work into flour(pea sized lumps). Add 1 tablespoon shortening. Put in freezer.

1 cup buttermilk
1 Tablespoon yogurt
1 egg
whisk together then pour over flour.

Dough will be sticky and messy; be careful, work as little as possible. 'Cut' out rounds and bake in 450 for 15-18 minutes.

Wine
pour into glass. Drink.

Nilla Wafers
Open box, enjoy with TV.


All in all, a delicious affair.
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Sunday, March 8, 2009

Madelyn and I met up Thursday in honor of TNBC (well at least the day starts with a T). Her unverified lead led us to a wild goose chase but concluded with a stop at Olive Tree Cafe.


I guess it's part of The Comedy Cellar, which explains why there were projections of Charlie Chaplin movies on the screens. It was fun though. And the tables were slate, designed for the patrons to draw with the house provided chalk. Mad sketched out her next painting design for me, a robot in space. It was pretty sweet. Our server was careful not to place our drinks over it as she worked. I wonder what he thought about that. I wonder what's the weirdest thing he's seen.

Obviously I had the cheeseburger. The fries were nothing spectacular; not bad just mediocre. The burger had a nice heft and came plated with plenty of lettuce, tomato, and onion to make a salad. And the brioche bun had a crusty exterior but was puffy held the juices well. It was also not split completely apart, making a nice pocket for my burger fillings, making sure things didn't slide around.

Ultimately, it was filling but forgettable (I feel like I say that a lot) It wasn't bad, and I'm sure the comedy is good here (My beer was certainly nice). But it's kitchen is altogether just another bar food kitchen (not that that is necessarily a bad thing).
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Monday, March 2, 2009

The Brunch Club

Like the breakfast club except we're not in high school. And actually we're eating brunch.

Anyways, my friends and I went to 7A for brunch on Sunday and from there good times were had and an idea was born.


I've said french fries were my favorite food (with cheeseburgers for the perfect meal) but brunch epitomizes everything I love about food: lazy weekend mornings that bleed into the afternoon, the company of good friends, a sparkling mimosa, a bottomless cup of hot coffee, and a plate of delicious food that's as flexible about the time as you are. We happily sat next to the windows, watching the snow fall again on the city streets while we were toasty warm inside. It's moments like these that are perfect. And you don't have a care in the world.

On the advice of our waiter (personally, I thought our service was pretty amazing, given how crowded the place was...our cups were never empty and when Alex asked Kyle if we had any hot sauce on the table, he brought it out without needing to be flagged down), I ordered the Huevos Rancheros, with my eggs over easy. Let me say I was not disappointed. The pico de gallo had an excellent flavor, a mild heat, and added a bright color. The mexican cheese lent a subtle creamy sweetness that could not be overlooked. And the eggs poured out a delicious river of golden goodness all over my plate. Sometimes I miss the slightly more 'authentic' mexican cuisine of the southern coast, but this was damn good.

Sometimes all it takes is the right mood and the right people to make the meal just right. And you don't brunch unhappy. And you shouldn't brunch alone.

I look forward to many more lazy sunday afternoons digging into a Belgian waffle and taking long drags off a cup of coffee idly chatting about the best things in life.



“It’s not quite breakfast, it’s not quite lunch, but it comes with a slice of cantaloupe at the end. You don’t get completely what you would at breakfast, but you get a good meal.”
-- Jacques of The Simpsons
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