Wednesday, April 29, 2009

We Spent Warm Summer Days Wishing They Would Never End

The temperatures are finally starting to rise here in NYC and that was ushered in with one thing: Fla-Vor-Ice.

I have had my fair share of Popsicles growing up but I never really had flavor ices until my friends moved into their first apartment on A and 10th. This place was amazing and I have a lot of fun memories associated with it. It was spacious, the floors were (slightly warped) hardwood, rooftop access, and no AC. At the top of a 5 story walk up. When it's like 190 degrees outside and you climb that many flights of stairs, you want something cold, sweet, and brightly colored. We spent late summer nights surrounded with discarded cellophane tubes and video game controllers. My favorite thing about flavor ice is that, like so many processed foods, they are just colors not flavors: "I want a blue one" never "I hate lime"

And while I always remember cold, clear winter nights and the walk to and fro their apartment listening to Band of Horses, Flavor Ice is still my first association with their old place. And summers in NYC. The first, but certainly not the last.

In the words of the greatest cartoon character to ever see print:
"It isn't summer if your tongue isn't purple"
--Calvin, Calvin and Hobbes

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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Fish Tacos. Alex Loves Them.

This article was brought to my attention by my roommate Kyle. Ezra Klein was able to eloquently put forth my exact experiences in regards to food in a new urban environment (though, I am not nearly as opposed to NYC as he). I have often lamented the lack of 'authentic' (what that really means is a debate I don't want to get into right now) mexican cuisine (since I too grew up in southern California suburbs) but, he's right; in reality I miss the nostalgia of taco memories with friends, tastes linked strongly to emotions.

"But as a Californian, I can still diss on DC’s food scene. Ask me about tacos sometime. Ask me about fish tacos sometime. And breakfast burritos. And what food tastes like right after a surf. And the appropriate frequency with which avocado should appear on my plate. But my dear friends who spend their days complaining about DC’s relative inadequacy are suffering, I think, from a crucial misconception: Namely, DC is not supposed to taste like your childhood home."

And He's right. So what does my new 'home away from home' taste like?


Part of the problem here in NYC is the sheer number of restaurants. It's easy to eat at a new place every day if you wanted. And I mean of the year if not the rest of your life. But I still have a few places I frequent more than others. Part of it is that I've lived in four different apartments in four years. But I can walk to all 4 of my old buildings in a matter of minutes. Part of it is that I've known the people back home for years. But aside from the fact that I live with Alex, who I've known for over a decade (damn, we are OLD), my other roommates are more important to me than I sometimes care to admit, that others prove to be more than amazing, or that even my friends back home I knew for less than three years before leaving them behind.

So do I have a favorite place that's less about the food than it is the memories? It's hard to say because I'm hit with both what seems a resounding flood of affirmatives at onset and a deadening silence of negative at specificity.

And so I sit here, realizing that, more than anything, places and tastes seem indelibly linked to not senses of home but of senses of friends. Something I think I'll write about soon.
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Sunday, April 12, 2009

Home is where the heart is?

I'm really sorry about these puns, titles lately have become harder to come up with than I am used to. Anyways, I think I have recently mentioned my love of bar dining culture: fried foods and booze. And I still dream of going back to Sunset in Boston. With that taste still lingering in my mind and on the tip of my tongue, I asked my friend Josh, visiting from UC Berkeley, to join us for dinner at Heartland Brewery.


Heartland brewery is everything one would expect from a gastropub: distinct beers and hot food.

I had a Buffalo Bock and a Pulled Pork Sandwich with cajun fries. The Bock was dense and cut and the Pork's tangy sweetness that accented well with the seasoning of the fries. It was a mess for sure, but all barbecue should be.

To be fair, this draft has been sitting half written for too long. And I just need to get this out of my system.
A little pricey, to be sure, and I could never afford to make it a local hang out (much as I wish I could) but worth it.

But looking back, I enjoyed my experience thoroughly. Maybe it was the company, but I now have a fond association of this place. I think it's the perfect place to meet with an old friend, have a solid beer and a good meal, and both catch up on new developments and reminisce of fond memories.

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Family Dinner part deux

It's been a few weeks, but I might as well post the dinner menu that I made. A butterflied and Broiled whole chicken, garlic mashed potatoes, and cornbread. A simple, comfort food dinner.


The corn bread was nothing special, from an instant mix I picked up at Trader Joe's. It was still delicious, and probably my favorite part of the meal.

The potatoes (for 4) were peeled and cubed and brought to a boil in a cold, salted pot of water.
While they cooked, a cup of milk, 2 tablespoons of butter, and 3 cloves of garlic (crushed) were set to warm over a low heat.
About 30 minutes later, the cubes were easily pierced with a knife. The potatoes were drained, and returned to the pot to evaporate off excess water. The dairy mixture was strained and slowly added to the potatoes as I mashed them. I probably used about 2/3 of the liquid. I also threw in some grated cheddar for full effect.

The chicken was prepared in the same way as I learned from this episode of Good Eats.




Though cooking time proved to be a lot longer than I expected (and still came out a little wrong). So I obviously need to practice more, and maybe adjust my racks.
I also thickened the jus with a white roux to give it a little more body.

A little wine and ice cream sandwiches capped off the night. A solid B performance, good participation with a lack of attention to detail.
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Monday, April 6, 2009

10 books that changed the world

Perhaps that's a bit of hyperbole, but this list of books is the perfect foundation to any aspiring food scholar. I have chosen each book from first hand experience, reputation, and significance. Part of the reason why I love studying food is that I get a chance to use it as a lens to see everything else and with that in mind I made sure to cover the spectrum: science, art, history, politics, economics, anthropology, and of course how-to. All these aspects are covered in these 10 books, primed and vetted from both popular culture and peer review.

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee
This is the classically essential book. If you ever wanted to learn anything about food and cooking this is it. It’s the book that my idol, Alton Brown, reads. It’s the one book that anybody who is serious about cooking needs to read. It's the alpha and omega. Start and end your library with this.

What Einstein Told His Cook by Robert Wolke
This lovely read addresses the everyday questions that pop into your head. He breaks down concepts and illustrates them with wonderful recipes. The perfect read for the amateur or casual chef who is curious about how things work.

Molecular Gastronomy by Herve This
The world’s only degree holding molecular gastronomist, Herve This has revolutionized the field of study. He explores the phenomena of taste, smell, and perception. He debunks the old myths about cooking. He beautifully blends science and cooking into an understandable art form.

The Oxford Companion to Food by Alan Davidson
No encyclopedia is as definitive or as entertaining as Davidson’s. A huge and authoritative dictionary of 2,650 entries on just about every conceivable foodstuff, seasoning, cuisine, cooking method, historical survey, significant personage, and explication of myth, it is supplemented by some 40 longer articles on key items. If you love reading wikipedia articles, getting side tracked into others again and again, this is the encyclopedia for you.

The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery by Escoffier
There is a reason that even today, every culinary student is given a copy of this at welcome week. It is still the authoritative manual for Haute Cuisine.

I’m Just Here For the Food vol. 1&2 by Alton Brown
I make no attempts to hide how much Alton Brown has influenced my cooking style. These two volumes teach everything the basic home chef needs to know to make both cook (vol. 1) and bake (vol. 2) a wide variety of dishes in a practical and timely manner. Clear, concise, and also complete. Recipes are amazing but also serve as spring boards of inspiration for the home chef to add their own touches.

The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan
Michael Pollan has become a sort of guru and his book The Omnivore’s Dilemma shows why. In it he scrutinizes the major foodways that we, as both a society and an individual, are obtaining our food. And shows us things we may not have wanted to know.

Food Politics by Marion Nestle
Marion Nestle provides insights like no other into the political machine that keeps driving the food industry. Where people like Pollan and Schlosser show how the food is made, Nestle shows why. It’s a disturbing awakening to understanding how we are affected without even necessarily being aware of it.

Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser
The inspiration for people like Pollan and Morgan Spurlock’s Super Size Me. Schlosser shows every dirty speck in the prepackaged world of fast food.

Hungry Planet: What the World Eats by Peter Menzel and Faith D'Aluisio
An amazing look at how families across the world eat. It drives home not only concepts of abundance and poverty but of cross cultural exchange and international commercialization. Provocative and eye opening.
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Super Heroes

Forgive the pun of a title as I talk about Defonte's of Brooklyn, the Red Hook institution that, after over 85 years, has opened a Manhattan shop.

I first read about the opening of the shop in NY Mag, my first stop in reading about breaking local food news. And when my friend Tim wanted to meet me up here to grab a bite to eat, I ran through some options until I remembered that it was finally open and I wanted to check it out.

We met up and ventured in, around a line of people waiting for their lunchtime grub, looking up at the menu. He ordered the Hot Roast Beef (with the signature fried eggplant) and I the Sinatra Special (Steak pizzaiola with mozzarella). We would've taken a seat but were out of luck and carried them back to my place (fortunately, I heard through the grapevine that more seating space will open up soon).

I had also heard rumors that the gargantuan proportions to satisfy the longshoremen of Red Hook would be scaled down for the Manhattan crowd. So I can only imagine how big they are out in Brooklyn, because these sandwiches were beasts. Delicious beasts. Not a fan of eggplant, when I gave Tim's sandwich a taste, I was surprised at how amazing it was. And their Italian bread was superb, held up well against the jus and sauce covered behemoths.

I have always loved sandwiches (in my top 10) and I am glad to know that this place is so close.
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To do too

Nothing like puking bile for two days to cause an appetite to go disappearing, but I've almost completely bounced back and have a few before and after stories to tell (no durings, obviously).


There's the story of DeFonte's, the new Manhattan satellite of the Brooklyn staple.
Family Dinner night
Heartland Brewery
Thoughts on dining out alone and Cafetasia
Brunch Club outing to La Palapa

I'll try and bust them out quick as hare.

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